Hawaii: Part One

Exactly six years from my honeymoon in Hawaii, and four years from the beginning of the affair that ended my marriage, I boarded a plane to the islands I had very mixed memories about. You see, my honeymoon on Maui and the Big Island was beautiful and amazing, as were the two years of wedded bliss that followed; but the summer of 2014, the last stop on the tour where said affair took place was Hawaii. And while his mistress was not with him, the man I married was already a ghost of himself. He was angry, and mean. He was carrying a guilt so heavy he couldn’t handle it, and used gaslighting (read about our current President and you’ll understand) to cope, deflecting all his guilt to me. The three days he was in Hawaii were riddled with lies and fraud and outright deception to his wife, who at the time had no idea why he was behaving this way. So all those beautiful memories from two years before were replaced with a darkness associated with this place in my mind. So why go back there? My Dad turned 60 this year, and my Grandma has always wanted to take a Hawaiian Island cruise, and I didn’t want to miss this time with my family.

So when I boarded that plane to Oahu, it was with really mixed feelings. I spent the first half of the 12 hour flight wondering why I was flying so far for palm trees and sand when I live 45 minutes from the beach in Florida. However, I made friends with the man sitting next to me our conversation was a great distraction as we drank wine for a couple hours and got to know each other. Then, as we began our descent into Honolulu, I finally felt a twinge of excitement, probably in part because my new friend had never been and was over the moon about our arrival (thank you, Dimitri!). And when we stepped out of the airport, I felt it immediately- the energy of the islands, and I knew I had done the right thing by coming here alone for four days before my family arrived. I was here to learn and grow, and heal, and be. And that’s exactly what I did.

I started out researching yoga retreats, however, finding one that fit the exact dates I had off from work, AND somewhere affordable proved difficult. So I decided to create my own. I found Sunset Beach Yoga  in Honolulu, who offered classes right on the water in the morning and at sunset, and a mindfulness yoga hike through the jungle, and planned my trip around their schedule and location.

I stayed at the Modern Honolulu, which was two miles away. There was a bus line that would have taken me straight there, but I enjoyed the walk/jog along the beach and through the parks and counted that as part of my exercise for the day. After I checked in to my chic and modern room with a balcony overlooking the harbor of sailboats, I made a quick stop at the adults only tiki bar for a refreshing mint lemonade cocktail.

Then, my new friend and I headed to the Sheraton Waikiki beachfront bar for dinner and an incredible sunset.

The next day I was up early because of the jetlag, so I checked out their simple and clean fitness center where I ran four miles on the treadmill before walking to yoga. Class was held under a large banyon tree overlooking the water. There was a balmy breeze and view of the volcanic mountains on both sides of the ocean. It was a basic and well-instructed class- food for my soul!

After lunch at the pool, I resigned to a chaise lounge and proceeded to stare at the sky for most of the afternoon. I felt good being there alone, just me and the palm trees. I didn’t have an agenda, and the day was mine. I’m actually sitting on my couch in Florida writing this, because I didn’t want to do a lot of thinking. I was truly meditative- there in the moment, soaking in all that healing island energy through the osmosis of the tranquility. It was amazing.

 Yoga in the cinnamon tree forest XO

Hidden waterfall on the yoga hike... brrrrr!!!

That feeling was amplified the next day. I began with another basic yoga class, this time at my resort’s pool, followed by the Jungle Yoga Mindfulness hike with the owner of Sunset Beach Yoga- Karen. This was probably my favourite day of the entire trip. We hiked through the movie set of King Kong 2, through a cinnamon tree forest, and up to a waterfall. We learned about the flowers and berries and trees, inhaled them, touched them, took them in. We meditated and practiced yoga. And in the four hours we were out there, we only saw other people TWO times!

It was peaceful and beautiful and exactly what my soul needed. That night, after a dance party in my room with me, myself and a bottle of Moet, I met my friend for dinner at a fabulous sushi restaurant on the main shopping street Kalakaua Ave. It was the perfect end to my solo vacay.

The next day my family arrived. I ordered pizza from Harbor Pub (SO good- best on the island according to the locals!) and brought it to our new hotel. I instantly missed the Modern, as the rooms at the Aston were small, outdated and dingy. The only thing it had going for it was an incredible ocean view from the balcony and a convenient and lovely sand beach immediately across the street. 

I went to Sunset Beach Yoga that evening and it was breathtaking. I can’t put into words the feeling of practicing yoga with that kind of view. I breathed in the salt air, and breathed out the bad memories and emotional pain that accompanied them. I truly felt at peace with myself and my life for the first time in four years. I let go and committed to moving forward… to opening myself to love and possibilities. I accepted that this process will never truly be complete, that wounds this deep take a long time to heal and will always be marked by a scar. But every time the scar starts to ache again, now I just close my eyes and feel that breeze and see that sunset. And I remember to just breathe, and everything will be okay. Mahalo, Hawaii <3

Heather Takes Manhattan

New York, New York

I am so fortunate to have friends who live right in Times Square, and a flight attendant mom who make it possible for me to be a part of it in old New York at least once a year. I usually fly in and out in a New York minute for a quick weekend trip, but this year I took the time to really do the city right, and my good friend Amy joined me for what was by far the best trip I’ve ever taken there.

The planning began when we learned Billy Joel would be performing his monthly residency at Madison Square Gardens on July 5^th. With a built in vacation day on the 4^th, it seemed the perfect opportunity to stay and see all that is American in NYC, as well enjoy the culture of the city from the perspective of the locals. We did it all- sightseeing, baseball, dining, drinking on rooftop bars with a view of the empire state building… and the best part? I got to sit in playing xylophone with a grammy-award winning band!

I’m a terrible tourist or great, depending on your perspective! Though I'm there enough that New York feels like my second home anyway)  in that I’ve been to NYC at least a dozen times and never done any of the traditional touristy things besides Broadway. This year, I did it all with Amy’s persuasion and enthusiasm for the patriotic elements of the city :) 

When we arrived Sunday, we went straight to brunch at one of my favs- rooftop restaurant Hotel Chantelle, featuring live music and .92 cent cocktails! The rest of the day was r and r with our fabulous hosts at their apartment just off broadway in the heart of Manhattan. 

                                                     Brunch at Hotel Chantelle

Monday we took a train to Coney Island. The beaches were PACKED (I proclaimed that ‘everyone is in the Hamptons this week, and everyone else must be here’!). We walked the boardwalk and out to the pier, took a ride on the nearly 100 year-old Wonder Wheel (eek!), and shared an original Nathan’s Hot Dog. It wasn’t spectacular, but it was a lot nicer than I expected, and certainly fun to say we did it;)

That evening, I had the privilege to play with Vince Giordano and the Nighthawks at their house gig at The Iguana. A friend of mine put me in touch with the band leader who actually brought a xylophone for me to play (not an easy thing to cart around in the city I’m sure!). The place was hopping from 8-11pm- make a reservation, as we barely got in, and probably only did because he had schlepped the xylophone for me!

                                                         with Vince Giordano

                                         Sitting in with Vince Giordano and the Nighthawks

                                                   Martini at the Iguana- I did it! 

Afterward, we headed a few blocks uptown to the Rum Club, where they host a jazz jam on Monday nights. The music here was just as fantastic, and cocktails were fairly reasonably priced.

On the 4^th of July, we looked into river cruises to watch the fireworks, but the price tag was steep and didn’t seem worth it. Instead, we took the Staten Island ferry past the Statue of Liberty. Hint: When you board the boat, go immediately to the top deck on your right. You’ll get almost as close to the island as you would on a private tour, and this way it’s free! When you reach the other side, move QUICKLY to board another ferry back, or plan to wait 25 minutes. 

                                                   Staten Island Ferry selfie :)

Afterward, we had dinner at the very interesting cheese restaurant, Raclette, and then we walked from 9^th Ave and 43^rd street all the down to the west river for the fireworks. It was a good distance, but certainly doable, and necessary, after all that cheese. The fireworks were lovely; however, unless you plan to spend the day waiting near the main stage, there is no emotionally- moving music accompaniment to this huge spectacle of explosions. It felt a little anti-climatic compared to the magical displays at Disney World.

Wednesday, we started the day out with brunch at Bubby’s, followed by a walk on the high line.

                                NYC Highline-traintracks converted into a park above the city

                                      

We then caught a subway to Yankee Stadium where I got to see my two teams play- the Yankees and the Blue Jays. Next, was dinner at Lupa, Billy Joel at Madison Square Gardens (AMAZING!), drinks at the Vu NYC, and a trip up the Empire State Building. Busy, but oh so fun day :) 

Thursday, I finally saw the 9/11 memorial. This was an emotional moment, as the memories of that day flooded back and I remembered the panicked feeling of wondering if my mom was on one of those planes. She was flying for American Airlines at the time, and was based out of Boston, where one of the planes had left from. And yet my fear could not begin to compare to that of those who were right there in the thick of it all at the World Trade Center. It was a solemn moment visiting that site. I was thoroughly appalled by the people taking selfies, and clearly not recognizing the significance this monument must have for others who were there visiting the names of their lost loved ones. I was however glad to see that we have re-built, and life is continuing on in the financial district. There’s a really neat Occulus mall nearby which houses lots of unique shops, if you’re into that sort of thing. 

I just got my American citizenship in 2014, and I definitely felt more American after this visit to the Big Apple than I ever have before. Special thanks to my amazing friends who were the hostesses with the mostess, and helped us plan our travel and itineraries each day! I promise, I’ll get better about using my Google Maps for next time ;) It’s such a big city, and it can be overwhelming if you don’t have someone local to help you sort it all out. Hopefully this blog will serve as a starting point for some of you, and maybe even suggest some great restaurants you haven’t heard of to those who live there! Everyone who knows me knows my vacations are built around eating, drinking, and people watching, so I’ll include details for each of my current favourite establishments in my next post :) 

 And here’s to you, NY, NY!

Stay tuned for part two: Dining and Drinking in Manhattan, Heather- style:) 

Calistoga, Napa Valley

When my close family friends announced their son was getting married in Napa Valley, I couldn’t have been more excited for a chance to check out “Italy of the west” with one of my best friends, Phil J  While it was a very different experience from Tuscany, and in some ways more costly and difficult to reach*, we’re glad we went both to enjoy their special day, and also to explore local California wines and cuisine.

Wine tastings

Our first tasting was at Rombauer. The tasting room is small and quaint, with no fuss service and delectable wines, ranging from a light and refreshing sauvignon blanc to a hearty cab. The true artistry here though is in their buttery chardonnay! And the view is lovely.

Next we had a luxurious wine and food pairing in the beautiful dining room of Davis Estates. The floor- to- ceiling wooden doors in the entryway revealed one of the most stunning views of Napa. Take it in from the lovely lanai adjacent to the elegant dining room and enjoy some most divine food pairings (include carrot curry soup and filet mignon that practically melts in your mouth), along with wine that matches the sophistication of the venue. You will want to savor every bite! Plan to walk away with a membership (there’s no pressure, it’s just that good!), which includes a minimum of four bottles of wine shipped to your home throughout the year. While you’re savoring this food and wine divinity, the knowledgeable sommelier will educate you not only about the wine, but also the impressive history of the owner and all his entrepreneurial advenutres. From old cars to saving vineyards, it’s quite the story!

The View from Davis Estates

 Curry Carrot Soup

Feeling So Relaxed in Wine Country!

On our last day, we visited Pride Mountain Vineyards at the recommendation of a friend. Wind through the hills (with no cell service- look up directions before you leave!) until you reach yet another absolutely breathtaking view. Here, you will be greeted by a sommelier who is as passionate about the wine as the vineyard owners . This was our favourite tasting, because we enjoyed his fun personality as he took us on a tour of the wine cellar and explained in great detail how the wines are aged. If you purchase a bottle or two here, the tasting is likely to be comped.

The Wedding: 

It was beautiful, elegant, and everything you'd dream of for a destination wedding in wine country. The ceremony and reception were held at a private mountain estate about 30 minutes outside of Calistoga. The bride and groom were married at an intimate ceremony overlooking a small pond surrounded by flower gardens in full bloom. One hundred feet away,  cocktail hour was immediately in full swing where they served signature drinks, followed by an dinner of southern fare served buffet style and al fresco on the lawn of the estate. The tables were decorated with simple pink roses displayed in wine bottles. The fun-loving nature of the bride and groom was evident when a doughnut truck arrived to serve dessert, and the rest of the night was spent dancing under the stars and string lights on the brick area where the ceremony took place. 

Sylan Lake Estates-Wedding Venue

Where to stay: I really lucked out in stumbling upon the Cottage Grove Inn on Groupon! It was quaint, quiet, clean, and just so lovely all around. Our cottage was complete with a fireplace, whirlpool tub, spacious sitting areas and the sweetest little porch where we enjoyed our complimentary wine and cheese tastings each evening. The staff was warm and welcoming, and incredibly accommodating. They provide free bicycles, board games and books to enjoy during your stay. I can’t imagine a more perfect and romantic setting anywhere.

Our Cottage

Complimentary Wine and Cheese Every Day:) 

Dining:

The main street is lined with restaurants, clothing stores and wine shops, and you really couldn’t want for anything here. The Chinese restaurant Soo Yuan was authentic and great quality food, and Sam's Social Club at Indian Springs Resort offered a relaxing terrace with firepits, flatbreads, craft cocktails and some of the best churros you’ve ever had in your life.

By far though, Solbar  at the luxury Solage resort was one of the most incredible meals either of us have ever enjoyed. After being waitlisted for three days at the famed French Laundry, which should allegedly be on every foodie’s bucket list, we ‘resigned’ to try Solbar instead after being assured by several friends it would exceed our expectations of even the elite French Laundry. And they were right! From start to finish, each dish was a delightful surprise. Combinations you would never guess would work ended up sending our minds and tastebuds into a state of euphoria. Yes, it was THAT GOOD! Skip the fru fru restaurant even the stars can’t get into, and go to Solbar. You won’t regret it.

       
          Pork Belly with Berries and Pea Puree                           Salmon Crudo

Napa Valley was a wonderful trip- we wined and dined, went for walks, rode bicycles, napped, lounged in front of the fireplace reading books, and soaked up the sunshine and antioxidants from all that wine. We returned home after the six hour flight rested and relaxed with some really wonderful memories. I’m still daydreaming about that carrot curry soup… J

 *Getting to Napa: Rent a car in San Francisco. Preferably at the airport where you have options. We spent a night in the city before driving to wine country, so we rented a car downtown. They were oversold and didn’t have enough cars. We almost didn’t get one, but ended up with a gaz-guzzling SUV. It’s about a one hour and forty-five minute drive to Calistoga. Allow extra time to navigate the complicated road system if you’re leaving from downtown San Francisco, and for traffic leaving the city. We left around noon and it wasn’t too heavy.

The time I almost spent the night in Alcatraz…and tips for a perfect day in San Francisco

Okay, I didn’t REALLY almost spend the night there, but it seemed like it might be my fate when my Uber driver took a wrong turn onto treasure island, known to house the spooky old prison, at 1:30am! After several minutes of driving on winding, unlit back roads, with a first-time Uber driver innocently pointing out how creepy the surroundings were, and musing at how unusual it was for a hotel to be located so near to this tourist attraction, he realized he had missed a turn and accidentally taken us across the bay bridge going away from downtown. My spidey sense was telling me it was all an innocent mistake, but my imagination wandered to wondering if anyone would find me on the uber map if this guy had other plans for me! So travel tip #1 for this blog: If you’re traveling alone and your flight is delayed and you arrive in the middle of the night, don’t worry about saving $50 with Uber… just TAKE A CAB ! The drivers may often seem shady, but most of the time they at least know where the’yre going.

Eventually we made it to the Palace Hotel-  Luxury Collection, where I was to meet my friends, and I’ve never been happier to crawl into bed in a room with a locked door. The heated toilet seat and luxurious robes, delectable breakfast buffet and lavish lobby were lovely, but paled in comparison to my relief that I had made it alive, and be able to sleep horizontally after also enduring my first frontier airlines flight. Travel tip #2: I recently upgraded to a macbook and “downloaded” some movies to watch on the six hour flight here from Orlando- when the computer tells you the movies are ready to watch, it is lying! You have to click on them to download from the cloud first. If you’re traveling Frontier, know that the seats don’t recline and you’ll even pay for water. It matters not how long the flight is- so #3: bring a couple of empty water bottles to fill on the other side of airport security, pack snacks, a neck pillow, and a blanket to ease the discomfort of the very economical, but non-reclining and crowded seats.

To begin the day in the city, we took an Uber (much safer during the day and with a group of people!) to Fisherman’s Wharf. Ask to be dropped at Pier 39, and spend an hour exploring the shops and restaurants, old war ships on display, and even an arcade housing the oldest video games ever made (think original pac man and Atari!). Then venture down to the pier to see the sea lions and seals. This was the highlight of the whole day for me. It made me giddy to watch them sliding on and off the docks, and laying lazily in the sun. So cuteJ

Next, Uber to Chinatown a short car ride away for lunch. We enjoyed the dim sum at Great Eastern Restaurant; however, there was a line of locals at the place next door, and if I’d had more room to eat, I would have definitely stopped in for some lo mein and general tso’s as well! Shops here sell inexpensive souvenirs, and are all run by very kind and hospitable people who welcome you in a non-pushy way at the front door.

 After bidding my friends adieu and moving over to the Marriott Marquis, which was clean and simple albeit a little dark and unimpressive, I met my friend Phil and we explored the shops nearby to kill time while waiting for the surcharge on Ubers to drop. Just as google said (Phil wanted to stop in to apply for an internship, but we didn’t quite make it there;)), after 6pm the price dropped significantly and headed over to the Golden Gate Bridge. What a beautiful and incredible structure! 

Okay, tip #4 always call ahead to make sure the restaurant recommended as ‘best view of the bridge’ still exists before taking a $25 uber ride to it! We arrive at Travis Marina Bar to discover it was abandoned some time ago. Google had one thing right though, it WAS the best view possible I think!

So we called the next restaurant on the list for near the bridge and enjoyed beautiful views, a lovely fireplace, and craft cocktails at Bar Bocce in Sausalito. We enjoyed the breadsticks with pecorino and tomato dipping sauce, prawns in a red chili and lime sauce and the cod fritters with lemon aioli. We watched the sunset over the harbor, sipping on prosecco and Phil’s vodka drink du jour before heading back to the hotel.

Jet lag had the best of us, otherwise we would’ve checked out the great jazz clubs in the area. There was lots to see and do, and EAT, but we just ran out of time!  I’d like to say ‘next time’, but I’m not sure I’ll make it back to San Francisco.  While it certainly has its charm, there was a sadness in the streets with the number of homeless people and the city felt somewhat dirty. However, it was also one of the most environmentally conscious places I’ve ever visited, and I loved that about it. Filtered water dispensers in the hotel lobby, and lots of healthy, hipster folk taking good care of themselves and the earth was very refreshing.

It was nice to see, but for one more hour of travel time I could be in Paris, and I just think I’m more for the other side of the pond than this American counterpart. Next stop, wine country...!